So for some, a simple container or pot of daffodils will have to be sufficient. All daffodils work well in containers but if your pot is at all exposed to wind or driving rain it is worth buying either dwarf varieties like Tete a Tete or Canaliculatus or investing in sturdier stemmed varieties that support themselves: Sempre Avanti and Pink Pride grow to about 35cm, are unusual daffodils and would be good candidates for this.
Daffodils can be interspersed for spring interest in borders where most of the action takes place in summer or autumn. The taller varieties like Golden Ducat , Mount Hood and King Alfred are big enough to be mid-border while the little tinies like February Gold and Minnow need to be right at the front to be seen.
The latter look lovely in rockeries too. Lawns can be planted up so long as you don't mind a slightly shaggy sward into April or May because you can only mow six to eight weeks after the flowers and leaves have died back. It is probably advisable to stick to the earlier varieties for lawns proper, but for those of you with woodland, rough grass or orchards, just scatter some of the larger, more robust and late daffodils and plant them where they fall.
Equally what could be more charming than a whole field of wild daffodils which also have the key trait of being able to naturalise well and do so in the dappled shade of a wood. Varieties that naturalise produce more bulblets over time and multiply and spread. We have put together a naturalising daffodil collection which includes Red Devon, Sempre Avanti and Carlton for just such an informal situation.
And anyone who has or is planning an orchard should invest in our Orchard collection of bulbs at the same time - function and beauty every time. For those who prefer an unadulterated daffodil, then consider planting the wild daffodil with its gentle yellow colour. The ice white, single trumpetted Mount Hood or bright yellow Bestseller are also classics of the genre.
Alternatively for anyone who prefers a full on and frilly flower, then Golden Ducat and the non-identical twins Cheerfulness and Yellow Cheerfulness fulfil that brief. Any daffodil that is either a jonquil daffodil or had one as a parent, like Cheerfulness , will have a wonderful, sweet and strong fragrance. Many of the dwarf varieties have been bred to have a strong fragrance because they are brought indoors to be forced or are grown in pots where you can actually smell the flowers.
Hawera and Minnow have especially notable scents. And now to the nitty gritty practicalities about how physically to plant a bulb in the great outdoors can be summarised:. Prepare the ground. Bulbs are the unfussiest of garden plants. Which also means that they are pathetically grateful for decent soil, adequate drainage and a reasonable amount of organic matter it.
A touch of bonemeal when planting does not come amiss either. When that happens they flower their socks off and multiply like rabbits. How deep do you plant daffodils? Unless specifically advised to the contrary as with cyclamen for example plant your bulbs at least twice , but preferably three times as deep as they are tall.
They flower better and naturalise better if they are planted deeper. So, remember, the bad mistake here is not deep enough. And do not plant at even spacings in a regimented fashion. Scattered drifts of bulbs generally work best. If drainage is poor, then put a handful of grit or horticultural sand underneath each bulb. Planting Tips: Daffodils look best when they are planted in informal groups rather than in straight rows.
Clusters of bulbs in a triangular, oval or rectangular shape will have a fuller, more natural look. To enjoy the daffodil season for as long as possible, select varieties that bloom at different times early, mid and late season.
An assortment of different varieties will ensure new flowers are opening as others are fading. See suggestions HERE. Daffodil bulbs develop roots in the fall and then go dormant for the winter. Depending where you live, they will begin growing again as early as February or as late as April. The first thing you will see emerging from the soil is the tips of the leaves. Don't worry about snow or freezing temperatures harming the foliage; daffodils are very cold hardy.
When the foliage is about 6 inches tall, flower buds will start to emerge from the base of the plant. The stems will gradually get taller and the buds will get larger and begin showing color. Depending on weather conditions, you can expect this process to take weeks.
Daffodils are hardy in zones and do not need to be dug out at the end of the season. Once planted, the bulbs will flower again every spring, usually in increasing numbers. Here are some tips to ensure your daffodils bloom for many years to come. Once the flowers have wilted, you can snap off the spent blooms.
This step is not essential, but it will keep your garden looking neat. Daffodil bulbs use their foliage to create the food energy that's required for another year of flowers.
For this reason, it is important to allow the foliage to continue growing until it dies back naturally. Once the leaves have lost their green color, they can be removed with a gentle tug or be trimmed back to soil level. Most daffodil bulbs will produce one to three flowers the first spring after planting. Over time the bulbs will divide and multiply, giving you more stems and more flowers, for an ever more impressive show of color.
Clumps of daffodils can eventually get large and overcrowded, which can cause a decrease in flower production. Some bulbs may pop their heads out of the soil before blooming.
Run your hands over the top of the soil to feel for more bulbs and remove them from the pot. Keep the deeper bulbs intact, but replant the others in a new pot, deeper into soil that fully covers them and start again. Once the bulbs have been planted and watered, keep the soil moist, but not soaking, during the growing season.
Taper off the watering when the flowers start to wilt. This carries through during the winter, feeding the plant. Full sun or some shade is preferable, which is why you see fields of flowers growing from the base of trees and spreading throughout an acreage.
If a flower dies in the pot, the soil is probably contaminated, so dump out all of it. Toss the bulb and start again. The miniature 'Tete a Tete' daffodil blooms for up to six weeks. The classic Dutch Master yellow trumpet daffodil is the one most likely to greet you first in the spring, but the flower is short lived, while gardeners in the South and West Coast can expect to see their daffodils last up to six months, with blooming starting in October.
Leave it on the stalk until it turns yellow. Nutrients are produced and are sent to the bulb for about six weeks after flowering.
When the leaves are yellow, cut the stalk down to the soil. The bulbs become dormant, awaiting the next season. A well-cared-for pot of daffodils should flower for many years. When caring for your daffodils, wear gardening gloves. Some people are allergic to the daffodil, and a skin rash may occur. While some flowers and weeds make good holistic cures and teas, the flower of the daffodil may irritate your system if ingested. Do not use daffodil flowers to decorate food.
While the flower is toxin-free, the bulb is poisonous. A versatile writer, Jann enjoys research as well as doing the actual writing.
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