So buying a twinturbo engine is a better idea then? It's been done but requires a lot of fab work as the last post implies. Adding an aftermarket "bolt on" turbo is not an option. Just sell the NA and get a TT.
Here's a link to what I've found to be the most helpful bit of information on the subject. It explains in detail what parts you will and will not need. A conversion would be the only option. What year did the TT come out? You won't be able to run more than lbs of boost without teetering on the edge of detonation. If you run a larger blower that pumps more volume out per lb of boost, you'll be able to safely make more power. Remember you're going to HAVE to retune the car entirely. You'll have to pull a fair amount of timing all throughout the RPM range as well as upgrading to at least cc injectors.
As far as fabrication goes, you should already have a good idea on that yourself. If not, you're probably getting into a project a little deeper than you realize.
For starters, custom brackets, belts, pullies, intake plumbing, etc. The real wheel horsepower number is actually the flywheel number. I don't understand, you're asking if someone knows about pro-chargers, and then asking that same person what pro-charger to use.
In all honesty, there are a LOT of things you gotta worry about here before just jumping right into it. AKA what kind of pistons can i use and rods. Well I would start off with the lower compression pistons, and for your low HP goals you could put stock TT pistons in there. You will also need bigger injectors. You could use stock TT size but I would probably step up to the cc.
Then you will need to have a custom tuned ECU, which shouldnt be a big deal since there are a good number of people out there doing that now. I would also look into either getting an aftermarket fuel pump or getting a stock TT unit which would be more than enough. Thats about the bare minimum that I would do that I can think of off the top of my head. I guess since you are converting it to a track car then you will be getting rid of the AC so you should have the space for your supercharger.
Making up a bracket isnt too big of a deal. As for what you can get rid of As you said the EGR, you can get rid of all the water lines under the intake plenum, since you have a 90 you can get rid of the AIV system.
You need to do alot of searching through twinturbo. Put forged internals in the engine and get yourself a P1SC at the least. I would think you would be good for rwhp. Also, doing something just to be different when it comes to cars is rarely a good idea. Lastly we add Larger throttle bodies, stock tt cc injectors so that we aren't maxing out our stock injectors, and then get a tune to account for all of these changes.
This should put you in the whp range. Lightweight Underdrive pulley unorthadox underdrive pulley kit. Lightweight flywheel and upgraded clutch if you are auto skip this step.
Dyno tune. Total cost for all 3 stages will range between k. Heat management is a huge part of making power, and prolonged engine life. This can be anything from an upgraded radiator, to heat wrap on the exhaust. But it is very important to make sure that you reduce heat in the engine bay. Here are a few modifications you can do. Upgraded radiator, like the Mishimoto tt radiator , or the Csf Na radiator.
Redline water wetter can help reduce coolant temps by a significant amount. Heat reflective tape used under the upper plenum to reduce heat soak from the heads can increase power. Exhaust ceramic coating or heat wrap used mostly on the headers, not really needed on the testpipes.
If you have an automatic transmission definitely look into a auto oil cooler if you are going to be driving the car hard. Guys dont forget about suspension and brakes. I wont be covering them in this article but they are just as important as the power mods and heat management.
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