Chicks of this age can be introduced to a courser grain mix as well as some grit. In addition to the grated carrots, greens, and hard-boiled eggs you fed them prior to this age, you can add a grain and yogurt mix as an occasional treat recipe below. Silkie hens do well on a layer-specific feed.
Even though they are not high producing layers they produce roughly eggs per year which are low compared to the of layer breed hens , a layer feed contains enough of everything she needs.
At this stage, they are also pretty good at finding extra snacks around the garden. Below is a recipe for a homemade layer mix. In addition to the daily small particle-sized layer mix, you can add a commercial oyster shell grit every second day.
A mealworm treat egg scramble can be given 2 times a week. Leaving some of the eggshells in the mix can act as grit too. Since silkie roosters are slightly larger than the hens, they will happily pick up larger pellets as well. Silkies need higher calorie feed in winter as well as higher protein to support their pre-winter molt.
You can add high protein treats such as eggs or mealworms to their diet more regularly during winter. Shelled or husked sunflower seeds, cooked wheat, still warm in the mornings, and sprouted seeds are excellent winter treats.
The greens they usually get fee ranging may not be as readily available during winter so it is a good idea to grow some greens of your own indoors that you can add to their daily feeding in winter. Examples of easily grown greens are:. Giving treats is a lovely way to bond with your silkies and it is also very useful to tame more timid birds. Giving too many treats or giving treats too often will lead to them consuming less of their usual diet and potentially becoming deficient in some essential nutrients and not to mention, your silkies getting into the bad habit of begging every time they see you.
Also, keep in mind that some roosters may start crowing in anticipation of treats if this becomes a habit. It goes without saying that this behavior is one best avoided, especially for silkies living in a suburban area. Although silkies chickens may seem to like to peck at nearly anything and everything, there are a few things that should best be avoided. Apart from the already mentioned special requirements, you may wonder whether adding a vitamin and mineral supplement will be worth it. In my opinion, as long as silkies have a varied diet based on a good commercial food either starter for the chicks or layer for the adults, in addition to free-ranging in a garden where they have access to some fresh greens and insects, they should be getting all they need.
As mentioned before, it will be worth adding some extra protein and upping the amount of feed given around the colder months. If you are keeping silkies for egg production, there is some interesting research done on the supplementation of spirulina on the nutritional value and flavor of silkie eggs. Chen et. If you are especially interested in silkies for their eggs, it might be worth considering adding spirulina to their diet. Leafy greens must be very processed and in tiny pieces.
You do not want the chick to develop crop issues. Some people like to give unflavored yogurt to chicks. I have found it to be very messy and being a dairy product, I would not give them too much of it. It can cause stomach upset. Probiotics are a good choice for gut health instead. Older chicks can be given Chick Sticks or mealworms for a treat. You can also begin giving scraps from your dinner table as long as the pieces are small and grit is sprinkled on top.
When chicks eat treats they are not eating commercial feed which should be their main source of nourishment. Anything that you add to their diets can dilute the nutrient balance of the commercial feed. Even healthy snacks should be given in moderation. When chicks are around eight weeks old they can move on to Grower feed.
It will grow moldy and be harmful for the chicks. Use it all up. It is ok for them to be eating it at any stage of development. We hatch out silkies all year long so we always have stock available. Like us on Facebook to get weekly updates on what we currently have for sale. Almost everyone has had a chick which has had a piece of poo sticking to its behind. It ends up drying hard like cement or worse capping the vent causing a small explosion of backed up poo when finally removed.
There must be a way to prevent all of this from happening again. This can kill the chick fairly quickly if not removed. If I see that a chick is plugged up, I will carefully remove the piece of poo with my fingernail. I gently tug, being careful not to hurt the chick.
This works best when the poo is dried. Some feather down may come off with the poo using this method. Sometime there is too much poo and it is too wet to remove it with your fingernail.
I will then use a Q-tip and warm water to soften the poo until it comes off. The disadvantage with this method is that now the chick has a wet behind and can quickly become chilled. I gently dry it off with a towel or paper towel and place it back under the heat lamp to finish drying.
Pasty Butt is common in chicks sent in the mail or in crowded feed store bins. It tends not to happen in chicks who are hatched and raised by a broody hen.
Their temperature is regulated by her feathers and she will take care of making sure that their behinds are clean. The new baby chicks will not be able to clean themselves until they are at least a week old. They are not capable of reaching around to that spot to clean it properly. This will be your job as surrogate mother hen. You will need to check your chicks regularly for the first week of life.
After the first week is finished pasty butt is less common and they are better able to keep themselves clean. Their bodies have also become better regulators of heat and their digestive system is better able to handle new food.
Thanks to their fluffy feathers and docile behavior, silkies are a great starter bird for anyone looking to begin their own backyard flock. Silkies generally require smaller coops than other chickens. They still need plenty of food and water, however. Other than that, these birds have relatively few requirements.
As long as you keep them clean and healthy, they will live for up 7 years. If you want to care for silkie chickens, keep them in a coop with wire mesh that has holes no larger than 0. Then, add bedding to the bottom of the coop to keep the birds warm and make clean-up easier. You should feed the chickens once a day with 2 to 3 ounces of chicken feed per bird. Hang the feeder about 2 inches from the ground so feces can't drop into the food. Additionally, trim the feathers around their face and rear regularly to help keep them clean.
For tips on how to spot common illnesses in silkie chickens, read on! Did this summary help you? Yes No. Log in Social login does not work in incognito and private browsers.
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By using our site, you agree to our cookie policy. Cookie Settings. Learn why people trust wikiHow. Download Article Explore this Article parts. Tips and Warnings. Related Articles. Article Summary. Part 1. Set up a coop with at least 8 inches mm square for every bird in your flock. That said, if you have the option to give them more space in the coop, do so. They will appreciate the extra room. A good coop will have a mesh ventilation window at the top of the structure, which you can close during rainy weather.
There should be a door to let chickens out into the yard or run. Have an area for the chickens to roost and nest. This includes a bar they can roost on and hay so they can lay eggs. Hawks, owls, dogs, cats, raccoons, and coyotes may all target silkies.
To keep your chickens safe, make sure that their coop is predator-proof. Either choose a coop with a solid floor or bury wire mesh into the ground under the coop. This prevents burrowing animals, like rats, from digging their way in. All windows and top openings should be covered with mesh. Check for holes and gaps regularly. Set up a chicken run outside of the coop to protect the chickens.
A chicken run is a small, enclosed area outside of the coop where your silkies can safely roam during the day. Make sure the area is covered from the top so hawks cannot swoop at them. They also prevent your chickens from escaping or becoming lost. Fence in an outdoor area if you want free-range chickens. If you want to skip the chicken run and give your silkies more room to explore, you can always keep them in a fenced yard.
Give them as much space as you can. Most owners unlock their feeders in the morning and top them up with feed, then pop back out in the evening and top them up with some more feed. Related — How often to feed backyard chickens. Silkes should also avoid eating all the same foods that are known to be bad, toxic, or poisonous to all chickens. Nightshade plants — Nightshade plants contain a toxin called solanine that is potentially toxic to chickens.
This toxin is only found in parts of the plants though, such as green parts of potatoes, tomato stalks, and leaves the green parts , but not the actual tomatoes, parts of eggplants, etc.
Tea, coffee, and chocolate — there are compounds in teas, coffee, and chocolate that are bad for chickens and most small animals. Avocado pits and skin — One of the main fruits you need to be cautious about giving to Silkies is avocados.
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