There are riders that purposely ride overbiked because they're fit enough to pedal a long-travel bike up big climbs and on long rides without much trouble.
For them, being overbiked isn't a handicap. Being overbiked will cater to your style and allow you to push harder and go as fast as possible in every possible circumstance. Seth questions if he has enough bike to handle this feature.
The bike will feel sketchy. There are instances where you may prefer to be underbiked. As long as your technical skills are solid, you can survive. Hardcore XC racers often like to do all of their riding and training on their race bikes. XC race bikes are chronically underbiked because they have to be built as light and fast as possible.
Riding this type of bike in all trail conditions keeps racers sharp and ready for any terrain they might have to compete on. Shorter travel bikes provide a lot more trail feedback and give you less room for error.
You have to think more, be more selective about lines, and be more active with your body. For some, this can be a much more enjoyable ride experience.
Being overbiked can make riding feel like a slog, but you get brief moments where it's all worth it. It had mm of travel in the rear with a mm fork. It was downhill-focused, especially with a coil shock in the rear. The wheels had downhill tires with CushCore tire inserts installed. The full build came out at nearly 36 pounds. It could confidently smash ultra-steep and gnarly downhill tracks and send it deep on big jumps.
For mellower cross-country trails, however, it was definitely not the ideal bike. There is a local trail system in Colorado called Buffalo Creek. It provides miles and miles of smooth, flowing singletrack perfect for XC and lightweight trail bikes. Its name is Blackjack, and it descends the rockiest, steepest hill in the area. The trailbuilders put in big double-black rock features that do a good job of scaring the crap out of me. To ride that short section of gnarly trail, I was often willing to take my heavy enduro bike on a mile cross-country ride.
It rolled very, very slowly up all of the climbs and on all of the flat bits of trail where you had to pedal. It sapped a lot of my energy and I got dropped constantly by my fit friends. But whenever the trail went downhill I could go all out and when I reached Blackjack I was able to send every feature. It made all the suffering worth it. Being overbiked allowed me to go hard when the moment called for it.
This is why I've historically been willing to sacrifice pedaling efficiency for that extra bit of speed and confidence. Being underbiked makes the climbs easier and every rough bit of trail so much more exciting. Maybe sometimes too exciting. I recently changed bikes to a Santa Cruz Blur. It has mm of travel and it is over 10 pounds lighter than my old Santa Cruz. Locally, we have a riding area know as Left Hand that has "secret" downhill trails. These trails are steep, extremely steep.
Although, this does come at the cost of reduced ability to put power into the trail. Weight: A full suspension is going to add the components to your mountain bike so by definition will be heavier than a hard-tail.
Maintenance: Again, the more parts you add the more that can go wrong and the more that needs to be adjusted. Given this distinction between hard-tail and full suspension mountain bikes the next two sections are going to be split between talking about front and rear suspension components.
The front suspension, or forks, of any mountain bike is going to be split into a few components. The steerer tube which goes into the center of the crown which branches into two stanchions.
These stanchions are what slide into the brace and slider which ends in two dropouts that attach to the wheel. The main way that riders upgrade their front suspension is by increasing the travel of the stanchions. In essence, this is increasing the length of compression that the front suspension withstands. A shorter travel will be more responsive and allow you to put more power into the trail while a longer suspension is better for rough trails and high lifts.
Another thing that is important to keep in mind is the diameter of the stanchion tubes. As the amount of travel increases so does the diameter of the stanchion to maintain durability and stability. Here is a chart of the common stanchion tube diameters on the front suspension of the mountain bike…. As I mention before, many riders will upgrade their mountain bikes front suspension by increasing the amount of travel that the suspension is capable of.
This is really only done in two scenarios as if it is done without thought then it could actually hamper performance. Now this is where things can get really complicated. Riding those famous tracks day in, day out for eight years, he broke more bikes than he can remember.
Alex then moved back to the UK and put his vast knowledge of mountain biking to good use by landing a job working for MBUK magazine as features editor. He's one of BikeRadar's lead testers, knows how to push bikes and products to the limit, and wants to search out the equipment that represents the best value for money. The Devinci Spartan is the full-on enduro-ready rig Alex Evans. The Fox 34 forks are lighter and have less travel than their larger stanchioned brothers, the Fox 36 Alex Evans.
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